Close encounters with wildlife at Russell Pond

The most monotonous day was the 7.5 mile hike to Russell Pond campground. On the way, we stopped to have lunch at the Pogy Pond lean-to, which was one of the most beautiful spots I’ve seen in the park and offered great views of Mt. Katahdin over the pond. 

Katahdin over Pogy Pond

The trail was flat and repetitive, and I was so excited when I caught my first glimpse of the pond that I let out a loud gasp.

We had a two-day reservation on a tent site a short walk from the water. While the roomy lean-tos looked tempting, we decided we wanted to put our new tent to work. We had picked out the newest model of the two-person L.L. Bean Microlight, and so far have been nothing but pleased with our little home. It is surprisingly light and affordable.

This is when the pizza infatuation set in. After only a few days of eating backpacking-friendly meals, I was craving pizza straight from the oven. The House of Pizza in nearby Millinocket makes some of the best pizza I’ve ever had, and I couldn’t stop thinking about getting a big, greasy pie as soon as I left the park.

I saw more wild animals at Russell than in the whole trip combined. Deer, hummingbirds, and chipmunks came out to enjoy the springtime warmth. We saw at least three different moose come to cool down in the pond at dusk, the best time for moose sightings.

Just hanging out by the dock

I had a close encounter with a moose in the woods, too. I was crouched on a log washing dishes for dinner when I heard twigs crunching behind me. Thinking it was Austin returning from filtering stream water, I looked over. Instead, it was a huge bull moose walking through the bushes. Alarmed, I stood up quickly. He stopped in his tracks and stared at me, head cocked. I imagined him thinking, “That’s a funny-looking moose …” and I remembered Austin telling me literally a few moments before how moose might attack if threatened. I started running out of the woods, and the moose started running in the opposite direction. Seems like we were both surprised by the encounter.

Enjoying the sunset over Russell Pond

Austin and I canoed leisurely around the pond on our zero day, and dropped each other off on granite rocks in the middle to bathe in the sun while our partner paddled around. It got so nice we considered going for a swim, that is until we noticed the huge leeches drifting around. We decided to pass.

Thinking about going for a swim ... this was before I saw the leeches

Waterfront property on Upper South Branch pond, lots of privacy!

Our first stop in Baxter State Park was only a 2 mile hike in, but we were weighed down with packs that were heavier than they should’ve been. We stopped at a cliff to look out over the South Branch ponds, and caught a distant glimpse of the towering Mt. Katahdin. We would be atop that summit in a week.

Upper South Branch is one of the most peaceful places in Maine. There is a sole lean-to on the upper pond, and you have to hike or canoe in to get to it. The little shelter sits on the edge of the woods about 20 feet from the pond. Looking out across the water, it’s very apparent you’re alone aside from the thriving wildlife.

We spent two days enjoying the tranquility of the site and feasting on our heavier food items – we needed the carbs for the upcoming trip. On the first night I enjoyed a fierce thunderstorm from the warm and dry safety of my sleeping bag inside my tent inside the lean-to. The cracks of thunder were some of the loudest I’ve heard, and rocked the forest around us.

The next day we hiked six miles to admire some waterfalls along Howe Brook Falls Trail, but I have to admit they didn’t compare to the falls of Pennsylvania. One of the few things Pennsylvania trumps Maine at.

Then the miles began …

Our waterfront view, such a peaceful spot.

The lean-to (from my last visit here, obviously wouldn't have be able to
carry all that stuff on my back haha)

Austin's Gore-Tex Katahdin Hikers from L.L. Bean make their debut. They
held up so well in the wet sections we came across later on ... may have to
get myself a pair.

Fog lifts over some planks heading to the lean-to site. Upper South Branch
pond to the right.

Backpacking in Baxter

23 miles seems like a long ways to hike, especially if you throw in large packs and Maine’s highest mountain. But it’s only about 1 percent of the ground I hope to cover next year.

Last week I completed a week-long backpacking trip in the remarkable backwoods of Baxter State Park in Northern Maine. This little excursion was one part escape from reality, one part training for the over 2000-mile-long Appalachian Trail. It gave me a chance to test my equipment and see what worked and didn’t work. And partly to see if I could really survive out there.

Here I am at Hamlin Peak, at the top of Mt. Katahdin. I had to travel a long ways to get here, though. Read about it in my next posts!

It ended up being one of the best experiences of my life! More meaningful than the practice I got setting up camp and carrying a third of my weight on my back was the peacefulness of being in the wilderness. It sounds strange to say it, but there’s this huge sense of relief of having everything you need on your back. 

The weight of a full pack relieves the weight of the world. 

Baxter State Park is truly a unique and enchanting place. There is no running water, no electricity and no cell phone service. It really forces you to be self-sufficient. More importantly, it gives you a rare chance to get away from civilization. It is a protected piece of unspoiled nature, which is hard to come by in our culture. The ability to experience that isolation, to just sit and enjoy the sounds of birds chirping and spring peepers peeping is priceless.

My trusty sidekick Austin joined me as always, and we daydreamed of when we’ll be heading to Georgia to start the AT a year from now. We had a series of adventures, but we mostly just sat and took it all in.

Read all about our adventures in my next posts, coming soon!